So a weekend in Milan beckons. Here's a little trip advice for our Milanista friends...
Arrival
On arrival you'll find yourself at Milan Centrale. Stroll through the massive concorse and down to the Metro entrance just outside (all the time keeping one hand on your wallet)...
So you've a bit of time to kill before this evening's game? Take the metro (yellow line) to Duomo. The Cathedral is, naturally, in the heart of the city and from here you can stroll to anywhere of interest within twenty minutes...although the stadium is a little further away.
Duomo
Of course the Pope doesn't have a monopoly on religious devotion as can be seen from this photo I took of il Duomo...no Fashion and Football are as much a part of the national character.Having got your bearings, and maybe taken in the views from the cathedral roof, it's worth having a look through the magnificent Galleria Vittorio Emmanuelle, the Ferrari Store, the quadrilatero d'oro of the most expensive shopping streets in the world. Again, keep one hand on your wallet but this time to protect you from self-harm!
Metro
Ok - it's getting dark. Back into the metro and take the red line from Duomo to Lotto, making sure you get the correct train as every second westward red goes towards Bisceglie instead of Lotto.
It's best to arrive early, whether you have tickets in hand or not. Those of you needing to book tickets in advance can rely on Milan Point Estero they charge a small commission and are authorised by the club with a ticket office in the pre-fab biglietterie opposite entrance 7 at the western side of the stadium.
Lo Stadio
If you arrive from the south this is the sight that will greet you -
from some distance - but 99% will get out at Lotto and take the ten minute walk along with thousands of others along Viale Fedrico Caprilli approaching the Curva Nord. As you turn into the car park of the Piazzale della Sport the magnificent sight suddenly appears. Thousands of tons of steel atop a battleship of concrete. In the night sky with those floodlights beaming it is breathtaking.As you approach the stadium the third tier of the Curva Sud is visible through the gap between the Secondo Annelo Arancia (2nd tier east) and the cantilevered roof and you can hear the first boom from the Brigate Rossonero.
After collecting your tickets and browsing around the stalls (scarves €5, jerseys €10, cushions €1) grab a beer or five (€4) and some yummy porchetta panini...the ultras tend to gather at a bar in Piazza Axum to the south of the stadium and the bar directly below
the curva nord (when its not Derby day).Ingresso
Time for your grand entrance. The Curva Sud is season ticket holders only but you can get them transferred personally if you're lucky enough! If so than make your way to ingresso 14 where the security checks are more thorough than elsewhere. No missiles, no glass, your plastic bottles are allowed in although you can't keep the lids on and for god's sake don't forget your passport.
Once inside (the curva sud) there are no more stewards or security of any kind. You're on your own. After climbing the seemingly endless stairs you can hear the tifosi at the top selling the Brigate newsletter (it's free but you can throw ten cents into the bucket). There are clothes and caps laid out on the ground which you can't buy elsewhere ...
Coffee and Ultras
Grab an espresso, a box of ritz crackers and a couple of Borghetti from the coffee counter run by the cute Milanista and her Dad at the western end, take a deep breath and step out into one of the best stadia in the world.
Obviously with no security there is no seating plan to follow. Just find a space at the barrier (the second tier as you will not be welcome on the first tier not being a regular etc.) or wander around standing on random seats and chatting. One of the first things you'll notice is the intense smell of grass everywhere. It's just a fact of the italian stadiums, smoking hash/grass is part of the culture of calcio. The second thing you'll notice is the Brigate leaders. These are the lads who stand facing the curva hanging out over the space below - a bit frightening when you think of the drink and smoke on board - they constantly harrass and harangue the supporters as they lead them through songs for the whole 2 hours or more of the match and its build up.
Hopefully it will be one of those special evenings when you can be lucky enough to witness some Kaka magic ...
